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What’s the best camera settings for live performance photogr

published by bmoguy on Fri, 03/30/2007 - 3:13pm

This is possibly the most often asked question by those who are new to live performance photography (know I was looking for answers when I started:D), so I thought I would take a moment and answer this question.

There is no best setting! No "one size fits all."

There are just too many factors for anybody to really be able to tell you "the best settings." These factors include, but aren’t limited to, the venue itself, amount and quality of lighting, is most of the lighting coming from in front or from behind the performer(s), is the performer(s) active or passive, what are you trying to capture (motion, stop-motion, silhouette, etc.), and the list can go on.

So really, I’m not going to answer this question, but instead, start a thread by telling how I go about shooting the venues I shoot in, and maybe others can add to it so that we end up with a thread to point people to when they ask this question.

My venues are usually pretty well lit. My biggest challenge is usually high contrast lighting: hot spotlights and very dark backgrounds. Throw in white tuxes, black tuxes, and even shiny glittery tuxes, and those are my challenges. I usually start by setting my camera to ISO1600, metering to center-weighted, and EC (exposure compensation) to -2/3 or so. I find noise at 1600 minimal as long as my exposures are on the mark. Then depending on the amount of lighting:
a. Plenty of light, I set the camera to Tv and shutter speed to 1/125, which does a fairly good job of stopping motion at most shows.
b. Questionable light, I set the camera to Av and open the aperture up to the max and see what I can get as far as shutter speed.

Once I start shooting, I frequently check the image on my histogram display for the "sparklies" or blinking pixels that indicate overexposed highlights, to see how close I am with my initial settings. If I see that I am overexposing important parts of the picture, I usually adjust the EC -1/3 until I’m about 1/3 stop below seeing those sparklies :D. If the metering is really having a tough time with a high contrast situation, I’ll switch to manual to get the settings I like.

If I have enough lighting, I might knock the ISO down to 800, or even 400 if the lighting permits. But for me shutter speed is key priority .... to a point. If I find myself consistently getting shutter speeds in excess of 1/250, I’ll consider stopping down the aperture a bit. But I take it shot by shot, there is no hard and fast rule.

Bottom line is this: even with Av or Tv and all the initial settings, as the light changes throughout the show, so do my settings.

Others, feel free to add how you start out at a show and how you determine what adjustments you might make as the show progresses.

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Taking & Processing Photographs

Submitted by Kalle Björklid on Sun, 04/01/2007 - 9:37am.

Thanks for starting this sort of thread, I'm sure it'll be very helpful for beginners and provide some food for thought even for us more experienced.

One thing I should point out is that I shoot RAW and because it gives me elbowing room, I do not concentrate on getting a "perfect" exposure, but rather accept that "good enough" will be enough, and use the maybe spared brainpower for other things.

Around 98% of ISO1600 for me... I almost always have regretted adjusting the ISO down when I look at the pictures on the computer. Some great energetic situation gone bad because of ISO800 and maybe because the lighting had changed and I did not remember to react.

I have two basic starting points when it comes to light metering (or the lack of it):

Manual mode. This I use when I think the exposure meter might be fooled by the spots that are "in my face", and when I take (ultra)wide angle pics that are hard to meter otherwise

Tv at about 1/320 s, -1 to 0 EC, with evaluative metering, and with the safety shift custom function on (Canon-talk). This means the camera tries to have 1/320 s shutter speed, but if the metering states that there will not be enough light with the largest aperutre value, the shutter speed is lowered. Of course I'd love to have (at will) 1/1000 s shutter speeds, but when I'm using fast lenses such as the 35/1.4, I'd rather have a bit more depth of field than what I get at f1.4, so that's why I use 1/320 s shutter speed, typically.
I use this mostly for single-performer shots when the light is somewhat meterable. I choose the exposure compensation based on the color of the performer's clotes (light or dark) and the amount of backlit smoke in the background.

And I disregarded completely open air festivals, it's a very different ballgame shooting midday with the sun as the primary light source. Then I might even use lower ISOs ;)

http://www.bjorklid.net/
http://www.huumakuva.net/

Submitted by Rene Damkot on Sun, 04/01/2007 - 9:52am.

Iso 1600 for 90% of the time.

Manual mode if lighting is constant, very tricky, or when using flash.

Av most of the time. Wide open to 1 stop closed mostly (depending on lens, light and DoF, in order of importance ;)). EC as needed (depending on smoke, clothing, background). Anywhere from -2 to +1.
Sometimes P with program shift, if there is enough light to go above 1/250 f/2.8 (rarely)

Evaluative metering, or spot metering off the face (spot meter coupled to AF point)

AiServo mostly, unless light is low, or lens is 'hit or miss' on AiServo (50/1.4 and 100/2.0; must test them and send them in if needed), and subject distance is constant enough.

Submitted by Trnquill on Wed, 04/04/2007 - 3:39am.

Venues I shoot in have very inconsistent light. It really depends on if the band has it's own light technician or not...

ISO1600 about 95% of the time. I use aperture priority, 2 in low light and around 4 if there's plenty of light available. Exposure compensation usually around -1...-2/3, but at 0 with wide angle shots and at +1 in hard "in your face" light. I shoot in RAW so hitting the sweet spot of exposure is not an issue.

I rarely use manual mode. If the lighting is really consistent or if I use flas I might switch to manual.

All the above applies to "normal shots" only. So, my answer for "What settings for live photography?" would be: ISO1600, Aperture priority @ 2, RAW format. If that's good, fine. If not, try something different. Getting sharp any correctly exposured pictures is a good starting point.

Markus Lehto
Fotoni.org

Submitted by gloubi on Fri, 04/20/2007 - 8:29am.

well my small D70 only allows tu use me 800 ISO, because 1600 is too much noised on Nikon...

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Submitted by shooter-boy on Mon, 06/18/2007 - 7:48am.

gloubi wrote:
well my small D70 only allows tu use me 800 ISO, because 1600 is too much noised on Nikon...

You should buy a Canon then :D *jokes*

Rob

Robert Bell (Rob)
Shooting for the love, but hoping to still eat next week ;)

Submitted by shooter-boy on Mon, 06/18/2007 - 7:52am.

I generally use ISO3200 where possible, as i usually shoot theatre and the guys won't stop moving.
Of course i shoot final dress rehearsal so the images can get to the printer for the programs, but that's another story.
It does mean however, that they are still sorting out their lighting, and opening night is usually a few stops brighter, and more consistent.

Av mode is my safe haven, -2/3 EV usually.
RAW always, flash never (almost), aching for Canon to release a 10-200mm f1.2 L - forever.

Rob

Robert Bell (Rob)
Shooting for the love, but hoping to still eat next week ;)

Submitted by Rene Damkot on Wed, 06/20/2007 - 7:18am.

gloubi wrote:
well my small D70 only allows tu use me 800 ISO, because 1600 is too much noised on Nikon...

Nah.
Noise is overrated.
Try Tmax 3200 sometimes. Or even ISO 400 color negative.

Submitted by JanaBlomqvist on Thu, 12/20/2007 - 7:08pm.

Iso 1600 99% of the time, and I am also sorry later if I turn it down. Around 500 at open air events.
M mode or TV mode with spot metering. I also try to underexpose a bit, I like the contrast effect it creates.

Submitted by Shooter5150 on Sat, 02/16/2008 - 1:31pm.

My reply to this is:

"Whatever settings make the histogram on the shot look "right."

What effect you're going for defines "right."

"Shooter"

Jamie "Shooter" Taylor
TailWind Imaging
"Away you will go sailin/In a race among the ruins/If you plan to face tomorrow/Do it soon." -- Gordon Lightfoot
http://www.myspace.com/tailwindimaging
http://tradewindimaging.photoreflect.com